Alone in the Alentejo at 60: What silence taught me
Table of Contents
The day I arrived in Elvas, in the Alentejo, I stood in my small house and realized there was no one to call.
No expat community waiting. No ready-made friends. Just me, a small Portuguese city, and the question of what to do next.
My favorite Alentejo home
Casa Azul, Elvas
I rented a narrow, blue house (Casa Azul) with a lovely rooftop terrace and an incredible view of Elvas.
When I opened the windows, I could hear the street noise. Kids playing, some cars passing by, and I could hear a lot of chatter. I felt at home immediately.
Past lives
I lived in Miami for over thirty years and was ready for a change. I did not want to go back to Brazil, where I was born.
I wanted a new adventure and fell in love with the Alentejo during my previous trip to Portugal.
I thought it would be easy for me to assimilate because so many things reminded me of the Brazil I grew up in, and I speak Portuguese (Brazilian Portuguese). Note the word “thought.”
Solitude vs loneliness
My Alentejo experience began with my biggest life lesson. I learned the difference between solitude and loneliness.
I have lived alone for more than forty years, so being alone is not new to me, but being alone without a community was new and scary.
Finding megalithic stones was always an adventure. I don’t know how to read maps, and the apps did not always send me on the right path. I had to be patient.
The megalithic stone in Barbacena is on a slight hill, and the dirt road is horrendous. It gets flooded.
The first time that I attempted this trip, I stopped in front of a car. I got out to see what was going on, and there was a huge puddle. A man was holding a tall pole and measuring the whole to see if his car would fit. I returned home and waited for the roads to dry.
The next time I went was on a beautiful day. The road was bumpy and dusty, and when I passed the Roman bridge, I saw cattle everywhere. I stopped my car and waited to see if they would move, but I didn’t know what to do because I also saw a few bulls. Neither made me feel comfortable.
I finally saw the stone on my third attempt and stayed there for hours, enjoying the scene.
New life, new hobbies
As the days went by, I decided I wanted to try something new and took up watercolors. I started a visual journal of my life in the Alentejo and hope to publish my illustrated memoir soon. I always had a sketchbook with me, and then I would go home and paint my memory of the day.
Jogging early in the morning was a way for me to keep in shape and stay sane. I took different paths and got to know the area well.
Over time, people wished me a good morning, reciprocated, and started to feel more at home.
When solitude began to veer towards loneliness, I looked for things to do in groups, which was not easy.
Playing in Badajoz, Spain
I didn’t find anything in Elvas, but luckily, it is about fifteen minutes from Badajoz, Spain, where I found a sourdough class at Pancontigo. I know, sourdough became very popular during the pandemic, but this was before any of that. My classes in Badajoz were a great opportunity to practice Spanish and to be around people.
I was fascinated with baking. I also took quite a few cooking classes there and joined a pilates class.
Badajoz had more street life than Elvas, so it became my go-to when I needed to be around people.
I started stopping by the only organic store in Elvas, Bio & Companhia (since closed), and became friendly with the owner. It became a sort of meeting spot for the locals who like organic foods. I loved chatting with Ana.
Living alone in Elvas, Alentejo
Elvas entrance
Living alone in an isolated place was quite a challenge. I had to be attentive to my feelings and take care of myself whenever I noticed that I was feeling lonely. It is easy for me to live alone, so there were times I didn’t even notice that weeks had gone by without me speaking to anyone.
I tried joining online book clubs, but I didn’t find them helpful. I joined online drawing classes, and at one point, I worked with a therapist who helped me manage things better. She suggested I add more things to my life, such as traveling, because I love being on the move.
I went on more road trips because I love adventures and never felt lonely while learning and discovering. I added short trips to Lisbon, and I also went to Edinburgh a few times a year. I have a passion for Scotland, but that is for another time.
Short trips helped me feel grounded, and I loved returning to Elvas.
Starry nights in the Alentejo are the best
My favorite thing to do was to take my computer up to the rooftop terrace and watch a movie. Sometimes I’d forget the movie and just stare at the stars. No light pollution. No noise. Just the Alentejo sky and me.
I had moved to Elvas, thinking I needed a community to feel at home. What I found was that I first needed to feel at home with myself.
The community came later, in sourdough classes in Badajoz, in Ana’s little organic shop, in the people saying good morning on my jogging route.
But the stars came first.
Marguerite Beaty, Blogger, Photographer & Artist
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